|Gary Oldman, Jamie Bell, Garrett Hedlund & Willem Dafoe for Prada|
The key points of the collection:
Double-breasted: These days, you're most likely to see a double-breasted suit on the likes of the Duke of Edinburgh, and featured in the (*ahem*) 'Classic' section at Mark & Spencers. It's a difficult look for a gentleman to pull off, with the double row of buttons often having an unfortunate widening effect across the midriff. Here, though, both the slightly elongated length and higher lapels of the jacket worn by Willem Dafoe make for a more flattering cut, reminiscent of late nineteenth and early twentieth century lounge suits.
|Men About Town: A 1909 Harrods Advertisement.|
|Is Jamie Bell possibly hoping for a Footman role on Downton Abbey...?|
Steampunk Pocket Details: There are some excellent details to be spotted in the front pockets - crisply folded pocket squares,bejewelled and cameo pins, bright buttonhole flowers, round sunglasses and (my favourite) big, thick pens fixed to front pockets with an elegant clip.
Use of colour and print: Along with the neutral blacks, whites and greys, there are handsome contrasts in deep reds, luxurious purples, stripes and striking prints on waistcoats and jackets alike.
The Smoking Jacket/Trenchcoat Hybrid: What better way for a Victorian gentleman to relax in his library, than to don a comfortable smoking jacket and silk cravat to fend off autumnal chills? Prada's take is to combined the relaxed tailoring and comfortable printed silks of traditional smoking jackets, and add the structure of a trenchcoat belt.
|Oscar Wilde, Smoking Jacket Aficionado, 1882|
|The Regency Collar in action: Alexander MacKenzie by Sir Thomas Lawrence, c.1800|
Prada campaign images courtesy of The Pursuitist.
Harrods Advertisement courtesy of cutterandtailor.com.
Downton Abbey image courtesy of Spoiler TV.
Oscar Wilde image courtesy of The National Portrait Gallery.